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- Tequila Farmers Escalate Fight After Governor's Betrayal
Tequila Farmers Escalate Fight After Governor's Betrayal
PLUS: Schmuck. The Hottest Bar in NYC that Isn't Open Yet.
Good Morning! I hope your week has been going okay. Last week we had TikTok get banned and then unbanned. Seems like those tariffs really will go into effect on Feb 1st, so buckle up for some higher prices on your favorite imported spirits (and groceries for that matter lol). It’ll be interesting to see how this effects restaurants and bars. I know that for myself we will be following this closely to monitor price increases and try to combat that with our menu at my bar.
Anyway! We have quite the news letter for you today, but we also have a video that is months in the making for me! I have been posting this week and last week videos from my travels last year when I visited several distilleries and tried to tell some in depth stories. I hope you enjoy this one!
Schmuck: A Bar Born from Heartbreak, Hustle, and Hope.
Picture this: A young kid of a refugee, living out of suitcases in Sweden, takes a devastating setback and transforms it into the most anticipated bar in New York City, and maybe the whole world. This isn't just a story about a bar—it's a tale of resilience that'll make your heart race and your cocktail glass tremble with excitement.
Moe Aljaff's journey begins in Västerås, Sweden. Growing up as a child of refugees instilled in him a profound sense of displacement. Those early experiences of feeling like an outsider would paradoxically become the fuel for his most extraordinary adventure.
Moe Aljaff wasn't supposed to be here. After building Two Schmucks, a Barcelona bar that became a global sensation, he watched his dream crumble when venture capitalists swooped in and stripped away his creative soul. Imagine pouring your heart into something, only to have it ripped away—that was Aljaff's reality.
But here's where the magic happens.
Instead of giving up, Aljaff did what dreamers do. He reinvented himself. From handing out flyers in Amsterdam to working his way up in the hospitality world, he had always been chasing something more. His time at Two Schmucks—which rocketed to No. 7 on The World's 50 Best Bars list—wasn't just a professional achievement. It was a testament to his ability to create spaces where everyone feels welcome.
From sleeping on friends' couches to crafting cocktails in a tiny Miami Airbnb kitchen with his head bartender Juliette Larrouy, he refused to be defined by his lowest moment. Larrouy, with her Michelin-starred culinary background, wasn't just a collaborator—she was a kindred spirit in this wild journey of reinvention.
Then came New York.
The moment Aljaff stepped into the city in May 2023, something clicked. "I've always struggled with the feeling of home," he admits. But New York? It welcomed him like a long-lost friend. With partner Dan Binkiewicz, he transformed a rundown East Village space into Schmuck—a 100-seat love letter to hospitality.
Schmuck isn't just a bar. It's a rebellion against traditional cocktail culture.
Larrouy doesn't just make drinks—she creates liquid stories. Imagine sipping a "Le Banané" that tastes like a perfectly ripe banana, or their signature "Melon Cheese Pepper" that defies every cocktail convention you've ever known. These aren't just beverages; they're edible poetry, crafted with the precision of a Michelin-starred chef and the soul of a storyteller.
What they hope sets Schmuck apart will be more than the drinks—it will be the bar’s soul. Drawing from a European hospitality model where everyone does everything, the team breaks down rigid roles. It's a philosophy of unity where bartenders, servers, and managers are interchangeable—a radical concept in the often hierarchical world of fine dining and cocktail bars. They're not just serving cocktails; they're building a community.
And before they've even opened, they've already begun to capture New York's imagination.
Their Instagram isn't just marketing—it's performance art. Aljaff's "Document over create" philosophy turns social media into a raw, unfiltered journey. Followers aren't just watching a bar being built; they're experiencing a dream taking shape. Each post is a mini-documentary, each story a chapter in an unfolding narrative of resilience and creativity.
And it has been incredible to watch on Instagram, with this video being a great example of using social media to build the hype and tell the story:
Or this one from a few weeks ago where they break down their bar stools.
https://www.instagram.com/p/DE0SuLzPESM/
THEIR BARSTOOLS. If they are treating each and every detail and element of their bar with so much care, why wouldn’t we as an audience want to pay attention?
As January 29th approaches, one question hangs in the air: Can Schmuck live up to its own legend?
But those who know Moe Aljaff's story know better than to doubt him. This isn't just a bar opening. This is a phoenix rising, a testament to what happens when passion refuses to be extinguished.
"We're always chasing flavor. But more than that, we're chasing connection," Aljaff says. And in that pursuit, he's created more than a bar. He's created a home.
Schmuck is squarely 1st on my list of places to check out next time I'm in NYC. And it should be on yours too.
If you want to hear more from them directly they did a Podcast episode with Radio Imbibe which I think may be worth a listen: https://imbibemagazine.com/podcast/episode-115-the-schmucks-take-manhattan-with-moe-aljaff-and-juliette-larrouy/
Tequila's Resistance: Farmers Escalate Fight After Governor's Betrayal
Following Up from Last Week: A Broken Promise Ignites Rebellion
In the wake of the January 9th protest that we talked about last week, the agave farmers' movement has found its most powerful rallying cry: the complete abandonment by local government. What began as a hopeful dialogue has transformed into a full-blown confrontation after Governor Pablo Lemus Navarro's stunning no-show at a crucial meeting.
The Betrayal That Changed Everything
Originally, the farmers had shown good faith. After their peaceful protest, they accepted Governor Navarro's promise to convene a meeting between agave farmers, tequila executives, and the Tequila Regulatory Council (CRT). The expectation was simple: an honest dialogue about their systemic challenges.
Instead, the governor's absence spoke volumes.
The Economic Battleground
Persistent Price Crisis
The fundamental economic challenge remains unchanged:
Production cost: 10 pesos per kilo of agave
Current market price: Approximately 1 peso per kilo
Historical high in 2016: 32 pesos per kilo
Remberto Galván Cabrera of the Mexican Agave Council (CMXDA) is unequivocal: "Yesterday I saw clearly that there isn't a human power on this earth that can get rid of the corruption of this nest of vipers."
Detailed Allegations and Demands
Systematic Challenges
The farmers continue to press multiple critical issues:
Product Adulteration
Allegations of large producers mixing cane or corn alcohol into tequila
Claims that the CRT is complicit in these practices
Demand for strict enforcement of "100% agave" standards
Market Manipulation
Accusations of large producers strategically planting massive agave fields
Intentional market flooding to drive down prices
Systematic marginalization of small-scale farmers
Government Collusion
Accusations that the government prioritizes corporate interests
Claims that the CRT serves business owners, not farmers
Demand for complete restructuring of regulatory oversight
The Government's Response
Salvador Ibarra Landeros pulled no punches: "We have a classist government, and the class they represent is the business class. Foreign interests rob us of our raw materials. And they don't have a single care for us, nor respect for our work."
Potential Future Actions
The farmers are considering multiple strategies:
Protests to shut down Los Altos and Tequila regions
A major demonstration in Guadalajara
Increased international media advocacy
Direct confrontation of government and CRT practices
The Path Forward
While risks to protesters remain significant—with some requesting anonymity—the movement's resolve has only strengthened.
"We will not be silenced," Ibarra Landeros declares. "Our fight is for the soul of tequila."
Want to Learn More?
If you’re still hungry for more about the agave farmers’ fight, check out Felisa Rogers’ follow up article at Mezcalistas. It is an incredible article and very much worth reading in full.
James Beard Award Announces Semi-Finalists!
This week, The James Beard Foundation announced the Semi-Finalists for their 2025 awards, generating excitement and anticipation in the culinary world.
For those unfamiliar with the James Beard Awards, they are essentially the Oscars of the food world. Named after the renowned chef and cookbook author James Beard, these awards recognize exceptional talent and achievement in various categories within the culinary industry. From chefs and restaurateurs to cookbook authors and food journalists, the James Beard Awards celebrate those who have made significant contributions to American cuisine.
The announcement of the Semi-Finalists marks a crucial step in the awards process, narrowing down the field of contenders and highlighting those who have truly distinguished themselves. The Semi-Finalists represent a diverse range of culinary talent, showcasing innovation, creativity, and a commitment to excellence.
Some highlights for me personally were the nominations of my friend, Oscar Simoza, who runs the Wig Shop in Downtown Boston, and another friend of mine, Colleen Hughes, who runs Supper Club in Charlotte, NC.
A couple of Boston area bars were nominated for best new bar, one that we wrote about recently, Equal Measure, and another bar called Merai that opened recently. One of my heroes in the bartending world, Ivy Mix, also had her Bar, Leyenda, nominated for Outstanding Bar.
You can check out the whole list here: https://www.jamesbeard.org/blog/the-2025-james-beard-award-semifinalists
Best Video We Saw this Week:
I feel like I recently shared a video Lucas made, but I figured this one was too good to not share with you all and I think he does an incredible job breaking down the 5 Myths about Tequila.
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