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Although we are a bar, spirits, and industry news source there are times when that can bleed into real world news news. This week we touch a little on how drink trends reflect current affairs. We talk about these things to bring awareness and recognize that like everything these things have nuance and backstory that we will never be able to cover completely.

With that being said, on with this weeks newsletter.

The Movement to Define a Historic Spirit

Did you know that Hawai’i has a unique spirit made from one of its native plants? Well the spirit has been around for quite a while but its production is not yet regulated. Right now moves are being made to standardize the spirit and preserve its storied history.

‘Ōkolehao is made from the kī root (also known as ti root) and is often likened to rum or tequila. It is believed to have been created first after the introduction of iron distillation elements to the native Hawai’ians sometime after 1778. Since then it has been the subject of great debate and its history has been venerated and vilified. It seems that ‘ōkolehao has a similar kind of backstory as moonshine in the US or raicilla in Mexico. Queen Lili‘uokalani made production and sale of the spirit illegal only a few days before she was overthrown by a group of European men in 1893. When Hawai’i was eventually annexed as a state the spirit was promoted and sold as a type of brandy.

Now producers of the spirit are working to have it defined legally as a unique beverage made only in Hawai’i. Since there are currently no legal regulations on what can be labeled as ‘ōkolehao there are a number of products that claim to be ‘ōkolehao some of which describe it as a rum, some just as a spirit, and one that is a “blend of bourbon, whiskey, rum, and spirits distilled from cane and ti roots.”

Although some international producers of the spirit, citing a history of British production of ‘ōkolehao throughout Polynesia, argue that the spirit is international and can’t be limited to production in Hawai’i alone, the push to regulate it continues. Hearings continue and it will be interesting to watch this spirit define itself in the world in real time.

The Real Reason Everything is Featuring Pistachio Right Now

I’m sure I’m not the only one noticing the pistachio craze hitting coffee shops, bars, and food trends lately. It seems like almost every other video I come across on social media is a cocktail recipe utilizing the tiny green nuts. What is fueling this latest trend? What if I told you it’s part of a wildly successful marketing campaign that benefits heavily from instability in Iran?

I promise this isn’t going to turn into some tinfoil hat conspiracy theory rant. Pistachios have a very interesting history in the US and have huge environmental and political impacts that most consumers know nothing about. A major source for this segment is a documentary released by Watermelon Pictures called Pistachio Wars created by independent journalist Yasha Levine and Rowan Wernham. I highly recommend watching it, but only if you’re not already deep in doom and gloom when you decide to start it. It’s definitely not a feel-good film.

Pistachios are not a crop native to the US. Pistachios are native to the Middle East and parts of Asia. They are a crop that require an incredible amount of water. This is why Levine ended up turning his documentary about water in California into a story primarily about pistachio farms. Despite terrible droughts that left countless people without access to running water, pistachio farms in California continued to stay green and lush. Companies had been able to privatize water, essentially hoarding enough water to supply residents of San Francisco for a decade but using it solely on their crops.

Sustainability nightmare aside, there is another dark mechanism at work here. Up until the 1970s the main global exporter of pistachios was Iran. When Iran revolted against American Imperialism and overthrew US-backed monarch Mohammad Reza Pahlavi the US responded with heavy sanctions and trade embargoes. These embargoes opened the door for the US to overtake Iran in the pistachio market. Now the US accounts for over 80% of global pistachio production. This is why the two people behind the largest pistachio farm in America make hefty donations to lobby groups that work to keep the Middle East in a constant state of instability.

So naturally now that the US has grabbed the market it stands to reason that there would be a push to use up all this product. Keeping demand for the product high is vital to keeping the global stronghold in the market. As the US enters armed conflict with Iran it remains a priority of the powers that be to keep their enemy down however possible. This includes industry and trade.

All of this is said to bring awareness to product consumption. We as consumers are fueling an industry that is built off of bankrupting the landscape and ecosystem of California and promoting global instability and conflict.

I’m real into whimsy as a means of escape lately. I saw this and instantly chuckled. It brings together so many elements of the industry in a way that is so pleasantly unserious. Great palate cleanser on a mental level in addition to the literal level.

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